From Lather to Legacy: Health Implications of Shampoo Use and the Revival of Soaps for Hair Care in Urban India

 From Lather to Legacy: Health Implications of Shampoo Use and the Revival of Soaps for Hair Care in Urban India

Abstract

In recent years, a noticeable shift has emerged among India’s middle- and upper-middle-class households toward using traditional and mass-market bar soaps, such as Shikakai, Lux, and Lifebuoy, for hair washing, instead of conventional liquid shampoos. This case cum research paper explores the health implications of shampoo usage, the perceived and actual benefits of soaps for hair care, and the socio-economic and cultural drivers behind this revival. Using a case study of Indore, a Tier-2 city in central India, the paper integrates survey findings, secondary literature, and theoretical perspectives from consumer behavior and public health. The study finds that while shampoos offer specialized conditioning and cosmetic benefits, concerns over chemical exposure, scalp irritation, cost, and sustainability are motivating consumers to return to soap-based alternatives. The paper concludes with implications for FMCG firms, policymakers, and educators, and provides teaching notes for classroom use.

Keywords: Hair care, shampoos, soaps, Shikakai, consumer health, clean beauty, India, case study

 

1. Introduction

Hair care practices in India have historically been rooted in Ayurveda and indigenous knowledge systems, using natural cleansers such as Shikakai (Acacia concinna), reetha (soapnut), amla, and herbal pastes. With liberalization and the growth of multinational FMCG firms in the 1990s, liquid shampoos rapidly replaced traditional methods, promising shine, strength, and convenience. Over the last decade, however, a counter-trend has begun to surface: consumers are questioning chemical-heavy formulations and rediscovering simpler, soap-based alternatives for washing hair.

This shift is especially visible among middle and upper-middle-class households in urban and semi-urban India, who balance rising incomes with value consciousness and health awareness. Brands such as Lux and Lifebuoy, originally positioned as body soaps, are increasingly being repurposed for hair washing, while herbal soaps like Shikakai are gaining popularity as “heritage wellness” products.

This paper examines the phenomenon through the following research questions:

1. What are the perceived and actual health effects of shampoo use on scalp and hair?
2. What benefits do consumers associate with soap-based hair washing?
3. What socio-economic and cultural factors are driving this shift?
4. How should firms and policymakers respond to this emerging trend?

 

2. Review

2.1 Shampoos and Scalp Health

Shampoos are formulated using surfactants such as sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS) and sodium laureth sulfate (SLES) to remove oil and dirt. While effective cleansers, studies suggest that frequent use of strong surfactants can disrupt the scalp’s natural lipid barrier, potentially leading to dryness, irritation, and increased sensitivity, particularly among individuals with already dry or sensitive scalps. Conditioning agents and silicones are added to improve feel and appearance but may cause buildup over time.

2.2 Soaps and Natural Cleansers

Soaps, especially herbal variants, rely on natural saponins derived from plants like Shikakai and soapnut. These compounds offer mild cleansing while preserving some natural oils. Traditional literature highlights Shikakai’s antifungal, anti-dandruff, and strengthening properties. However, conventional bar soaps are alkaline (pH 9–10), which may cause roughness if used frequently without acidic rinses.

2.3 Clean Beauty and Sustainability

The global clean beauty movement emphasizes minimal ingredients, transparency, biodegradability, and reduced plastic packaging. Bar soaps align with these values due to their simple formulations and low packaging waste. Indian consumers increasingly associate “herbal” and “Ayurvedic” labels with safety and authenticity.

2.4 Consumer Behavior in Emerging Markets

Research on emerging markets shows that consumers often blend modern aspirations with traditional habits. Price sensitivity remains high even among middle-class groups, leading to experimentation with multi-purpose products that deliver acceptable performance at lower cost.

 

3. Conceptual Framework

The study integrates three perspectives:

• Health Belief Model: Perceived risks of chemical exposure motivate behavior change.
• Value-for-Money Orientation: Consumers evaluate cost per use rather than absolute income.
• Cultural Embeddedness: Trust in traditional practices shapes product acceptance.

Together, these explain why soaps are being reconsidered as viable hair-care alternatives.

 

4. Methodology

4.1 Research Design

A mixed-method case study approach was adopted, focusing on Indore, Madhya Pradesh, a rapidly growing Tier-2 city with a diverse middle-class population.

4.2 Sample and Data Collection

A survey of 500 households with annual incomes between ₹5–20 lakh was conducted in 2025. Respondents were primary grocery and personal care decision-makers. Structured questionnaires captured usage patterns, spending, perceived health outcomes, and brand preferences. Informal interviews with 20 respondents supplemented quantitative data.

4.3 Data Analysis

Descriptive statistics summarized trends, while chi-square tests examined associations between product choice and perceived scalp health. Qualitative insights were thematically analyzed.

4.4 Limitations

Findings rely on self-reported perceptions rather than clinical measures of scalp health, and are limited to one city, restricting generalizability.

 

5. Case Background: Hair Care in Indore

Indore represents a blend of tradition and modernity. The city has strong Ayurvedic roots and a vibrant FMCG retail presence. Social media influencers, local salons, and family networks play a major role in shaping grooming habits. Rising water hardness in the region also affects hair texture, influencing product choice.

Between 2022 and 2025, anecdotal evidence suggested a visible revival of soap use for hair, prompting this systematic inquiry.

 

6. Findings

6.1 Usage Patterns

• Shampoo users: 65%
• Soap users for hair: 35%

Among soap users, brand preference was:

• Shikakai herbal soaps: 40%
• Lux: 30%
• Lifebuoy: 20%
• Lebel: 10%

6.2 Spending

Average monthly spend:

• Shampoo users: ₹300–500
• Soap users: ₹100–200

6.3 Perceived Health Outcomes

Shampoo users reported:

• Dryness or irritation: 40%
• Hair fall concerns: 30%

Soap users reported:

• Reduced oiliness: 55%
• Improved scalp comfort: 45%
• Tangling or roughness: 20%

A chi-square test indicated a significant association between product type and perceived scalp health (p < 0.05), rejecting the assumption that shampoos are universally superior.

6.4 Motivations for Switching

Key themes included:

• Fear of “chemicals” and sulfates
• Cost savings
• Influence of elders and Ayurveda
• Desire for simpler, multi-purpose products

6.5 Lifebuoy as a Multi-Purpose Choice

About 20% of households used Lifebuoy for hair, citing germ protection and familiarity. Users perceived fewer scalp infections but acknowledged dryness without conditioners.

 

7. Discussion

7.1 Health Effects of Shampoos

While modern shampoos are dermatologically tested, frequent use of strong surfactants may strip sebum, disrupt pH balance (ideal scalp pH ≈ 5.5), and exacerbate dryness in polluted and hard-water environments. Additives like fragrances and preservatives can trigger sensitivity in some users.

7.2 Benefits and Risks of Soaps

Herbal soaps offer mild cleansing through natural saponins and align with cultural trust in Ayurveda. Their low cost encourages regular use without financial burden. However, alkaline pH may roughen hair cuticles, and lack of conditioning agents can cause tangling. Users often adapt by using oils or acidic rinses (lemon or vinegar).

7.3 The Paradox of Prosperity

Interestingly, rising incomes do not always lead to premiumization. Instead, consumers seek products that balance health, tradition, and thrift. Using Lux or Lifebuoy for hair symbolizes pragmatic modernity rather than deprivation.

7.4 Clean Beauty as a Social Narrative

The soap revival is not merely functional but symbolic—representing resistance to over-processed lifestyles and a return to “simple living.” Social media amplifies this narrative.

 

8. Managerial Implications

For FMCG firms:

• Develop hybrid “soap-shampoo” bars with mild surfactants and conditioners.
• Offer transparent ingredient communication.
• Price products for value-conscious segments.

For policymakers:

• Promote standardization and certification of Ayurvedic and herbal products.
• Encourage consumer education on pH balance and safe practices.

For salons and influencers:

• Provide balanced guidance rather than extreme endorsements.

 

9. Policy and Public Health Implications

Public health messaging should focus on informed choice rather than product demonization. Emphasis on scalp hygiene, moderation, and suitability to local water and climate conditions can prevent misuse. Integrating traditional knowledge with scientific validation can enhance trust.

 

10. Future Research Directions

• Longitudinal clinical studies on scalp pH and hair strength.
• Comparative analysis across regions with different water quality.
• Impact of hybrid products on consumer retention.

 

11. Conclusion

The revival of soaps for hair washing among India’s urban middle classes reflects a complex interplay of health concerns, cultural memory, cost consciousness, and sustainability values. Shampoos continue to dominate due to convenience and conditioning benefits, but their perceived chemical risks open space for simpler alternatives. Rather than a binary choice, the future of hair care in India may lie in integrative solutions that combine the gentleness of traditional cleansers with the science of modern formulations.

 

References

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·         Kotler, P., & Keller, K. L. (2019). Marketing management (15th ed.). Pearson.

·         Nair, B. (2020). Ayurveda and personal care: Trends in India. Journal of Traditional Medicine, 14(2), 45–58.

·         Singh, R., & Verma, P. (2022). Consumer perceptions of herbal cosmetics in urban India. International Journal of Consumer Studies, 46(3), 789